Capturing the Northern Lights requires the right equipment, settings, and techniques. With its dynamic displays and varying intensity, aurora photography presents unique challenges that can be mastered with proper preparation and knowledge.
Whether you're using a DSLR, mirrorless camera, or even a smartphone, understanding exposure settings, composition principles, and post-processing techniques will help you create stunning aurora images that capture the magic of Alaska's night sky.
CHECK CURRENT CONDITIONSUse the widest aperture your lens allows to capture maximum light and detail.
Start with ISO 1600 and adjust based on aurora brightness and your camera's noise performance.
Longer exposures capture more detail, but shorter exposures (5-10s) preserve aurora movement.
Aperture controls how much light enters your camera and affects depth of field. For aurora photography, you want the widest aperture possible (lowest f-number) to capture maximum light. Most aurora photographers use f/2.8 or wider (f/2.0, f/1.8, f/1.4).
Wide-angle lenses with fast apertures (f/2.8 or wider) are essential for aurora photography. These lenses allow you to capture more of the sky while letting in enough light for proper exposure. Prime lenses often offer wider maximum apertures than zoom lenses, making them popular choices for aurora photography.
Fastest apertures, best for very dark conditions or capturing faint aurora. Requires careful focusing due to shallow depth of field.
Ideal balance of light gathering and sharpness. Most common choice for aurora photography. Good depth of field for foreground elements.
Acceptable for bright aurora displays but may require higher ISO. Less ideal for faint displays or very dark conditions.
ISO determines your camera's sensitivity to light. Higher ISO values allow you to capture images in darker conditions but can introduce digital noise. Modern full-frame cameras typically perform well up to ISO 3200-6400, while crop-sensor cameras may show noise at lower ISO values.
Start with ISO 1600 for most aurora displays and adjust based on conditions. For bright, active aurora, you may be able to use ISO 800-1600. For faint displays, you may need ISO 3200-6400. Test your camera's noise performance at different ISO settings to find the highest acceptable value for your equipment.
Best for bright, active aurora displays. Minimal noise, excellent image quality. Use when aurora is clearly visible to the naked eye.
Standard range for most aurora photography. Good balance of light sensitivity and image quality. Works well for moderate aurora displays.
For faint aurora or very dark conditions. Some noise may be visible but acceptable. Modern cameras handle this range well.
Only for extremely faint displays. Significant noise will be present. Use noise reduction in post-processing. Not recommended unless necessary.
Shutter speed determines how long your camera's sensor is exposed to light. For aurora photography, you need long exposures (several seconds) to capture enough light, but the exact duration depends on how fast the aurora is moving and how much detail you want to preserve.
Fast-moving aurora (rays, curtains, coronas) require shorter exposures (5-10 seconds) to preserve detail and movement. Slower-moving or diffuse aurora can be captured with longer exposures (15-25 seconds) for more detail and smoother appearance. The 500 Rule (500 divided by your focal length) helps determine maximum exposure before stars begin to trail.
Best for fast-moving, dynamic aurora. Preserves detail in rays and curtains. Captures the movement and structure of active displays.
Good balance for most aurora displays. Captures detail while allowing enough light. Works well for moderate to active aurora.
For faint or slow-moving aurora. Captures more light and detail. May blur fast-moving features. Watch for star trailing.
White balance affects the color temperature of your images. For aurora photography, many photographers prefer slightly cool white balance settings (3000-4000K) to enhance the green colors of aurora, though this is largely a matter of personal preference and can be adjusted in post-processing if shooting RAW.
If shooting RAW format (highly recommended), white balance can be adjusted in post-processing without quality loss. Many photographers use "Daylight" or "Auto" white balance and fine-tune in editing. For JPEG shooting, experiment with "Tungsten" or "Fluorescent" settings for cooler tones, or "Daylight" for more natural colors.
Achieving sharp focus in darkness is one of the biggest challenges in aurora photography. Autofocus often fails in low light, so manual focus is typically required. Use live view with magnification to focus on a bright star or distant light, then lock focus and don't touch the focus ring.
For lenses with infinity markers, you can set focus to infinity, but be aware that many lenses focus slightly past infinity. Test your lens beforehand to find the true infinity point. Some photographers use tape to mark the focus position once set. If including foreground elements, use hyperfocal distance calculations or focus stack multiple images.
Full-frame cameras (35mm sensor) perform best for aurora photography due to their superior low-light performance and larger pixels that capture more light. However, crop-sensor cameras (APS-C, Micro Four Thirds) can also produce excellent results with proper technique.
Key features to look for: good high-ISO performance (clean images up to ISO 3200), manual exposure controls, RAW format capability, and a reliable battery (cold weather drains batteries quickly). Mirrorless cameras offer advantages like electronic viewfinders for easier composition in darkness and focus peaking for manual focus assistance.
Wide-angle lenses (14-24mm for full-frame, 10-18mm for crop sensors) are ideal for aurora photography, allowing you to capture large portions of the sky and include foreground elements. Fast lenses (f/2.8 or wider) are essential for capturing enough light in dark conditions.
Prime lenses often offer wider maximum apertures and better image quality than zoom lenses, but zoom lenses provide flexibility for composition. Popular choices include 14mm f/2.8, 20mm f/1.8, and 24mm f/1.4 for full-frame cameras. Consider lens distortion and vignetting when selecting, as these can affect wide-field aurora images.
A sturdy tripod is absolutely essential for aurora photography. Long exposures require complete camera stability to avoid blur. Choose a tripod that's stable in windy conditions and can support your camera and lens combination. Carbon fiber tripods offer good stability with lighter weight, while aluminum tripods are more affordable and durable.
Consider tripod height—you'll want one tall enough for comfortable viewing and composition. A ball head or three-way pan head allows precise positioning. In cold conditions, avoid touching metal tripod parts with bare hands, as they can cause skin to stick. Some photographers use foam padding or gloves when adjusting tripods in extreme cold.
A remote shutter release (wired or wireless) prevents camera shake from pressing the shutter button. Even the slightest movement can cause blur in long exposures. Intervalometers allow you to program time-lapse sequences, capturing aurora movement over time.
Many modern cameras have built-in intervalometers or can be controlled via smartphone apps. Wireless remotes are convenient but may have range limitations. Wired remotes are more reliable in cold conditions. Some cameras have a 2-second delay timer as a basic alternative, though this is less ideal than a remote release.
Cold temperatures dramatically reduce battery life. Lithium-ion batteries can lose 50% or more of their capacity in sub-zero temperatures. Always bring multiple fully charged batteries and keep spares warm in inner pockets close to your body. Consider using battery grips for extended shooting sessions.
Some photographers use external battery packs or power banks connected via USB to extend shooting time. Keep batteries warm until needed—swap them when they get cold. Consider investing in high-capacity batteries or battery grips. In extreme cold (-20°F and below), expect significantly reduced battery life and plan accordingly.
Use fast, high-capacity memory cards for aurora photography. RAW files are large (20-50MB each), and you'll likely take many images during a single viewing session. Class 10 or UHS-I/UHS-II cards ensure fast write speeds, preventing buffer delays between shots.
Bring multiple cards as backup. 64GB or 128GB cards provide plenty of storage for extended shooting sessions. Consider cards rated for cold weather operation, though most modern cards handle cold reasonably well. Always format cards in-camera before use to prevent file system issues.
Foreground elements add depth, scale, and interest to aurora images. Trees, mountains, buildings, or other landscape features create a sense of place and help viewers understand the scale of aurora displays. Position interesting foreground elements in the lower third of your frame, using the rule of thirds for balanced composition.
Silhouettes work particularly well—dark foreground elements against bright aurora create dramatic contrast. Look for interesting shapes, lines, or textures that complement the aurora. Consider using a flashlight or headlamp to "paint" foreground elements with light during long exposures, adding detail and interest to otherwise dark areas.
The rule of thirds is a fundamental composition principle that applies well to aurora photography. Divide your frame into a 3x3 grid and position key elements along these lines or at their intersections. For aurora, consider placing the horizon along the lower third line, with aurora filling the upper two-thirds of the frame.
However, don't be afraid to break this rule when aurora fills the entire sky or when you want to emphasize the scale of a display. Sometimes centering aurora or using a more symmetrical composition works better. The key is to create a balanced, visually appealing image that guides the viewer's eye through the frame.
Both vertical (portrait) and horizontal (landscape) orientations work for aurora photography, depending on the display and composition. Vertical orientation emphasizes the height and scale of aurora displays, especially when capturing rays or curtains that extend high into the sky.
Horizontal orientation works well for wide aurora displays, panoramas, or when including significant foreground elements. Consider shooting both orientations of the same scene, as different compositions can highlight different aspects of the aurora display. Some photographers create panoramic images by stitching multiple horizontal frames together.
Aurora displays are dynamic, constantly changing in shape, intensity, and position. To capture movement, use shorter exposures (5-10 seconds) that freeze the motion, or longer exposures (15-25 seconds) that create smooth, flowing effects. Experiment with different shutter speeds to find the effect you prefer.
Time-lapse photography is an excellent way to capture aurora movement over extended periods. Set your camera to take images at regular intervals (every 5-10 seconds) and combine them into a video sequence. This technique reveals the dynamic nature of aurora displays and creates compelling visual content.
Shooting in RAW format is highly recommended for aurora photography. RAW files contain significantly more image data than JPEG files, allowing for greater flexibility in post-processing. You can adjust white balance, exposure, and colors without quality loss when working with RAW files.
RAW files are larger and require post-processing, but the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks. You can recover details from shadows and highlights, fine-tune colors to match what you saw, and correct exposure errors. Most professional aurora photographers shoot exclusively in RAW format for maximum creative control.
Start with basic adjustments: exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, and white balance. Aurora images often benefit from slight exposure increases and shadow recovery to reveal detail in dark areas. Adjust white balance to enhance or correct aurora colors—slightly cool tones often work well for green aurora.
Be careful not to over-process. The goal is to enhance what you captured, not create something that wasn't there. Maintain natural-looking colors and avoid excessive saturation. Compare your processed images to what you remember seeing to ensure authenticity.
High ISO settings and long exposures can introduce digital noise. Use noise reduction tools in your editing software (Lightroom, Photoshop, or specialized noise reduction plugins) to clean up images. Be careful not to over-apply noise reduction, as it can create a plastic, artificial look and reduce fine detail.
Luminance noise reduction affects overall image smoothness, while color noise reduction removes color artifacts. Start with moderate settings and adjust based on your specific image. Some photographers prefer to use dedicated noise reduction software like Topaz Denoise AI or DxO PhotoLab for better results.
Aurora colors can be enhanced in post-processing, but maintain natural appearance. Slight saturation increases can make green aurora more vibrant, but avoid creating unrealistic colors. Use selective color adjustments to enhance specific aurora colors (green, red, blue) without affecting the entire image.
The HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) panel in Lightroom allows precise control over individual colors. Enhance green saturation for aurora while keeping other colors natural. Be mindful that cameras often capture more color than the human eye sees—your processed images should reflect what you experienced, not create false colors.
Modern smartphones, especially flagship models, can capture surprisingly good aurora images with the right techniques. Many newer phones have "Night Mode" or "Astrophotography" modes that use computational photography to combine multiple exposures, creating brighter, cleaner images than single exposures.
While smartphones can't match dedicated cameras for aurora photography, they're excellent for casual photography and social media sharing. Use manual camera apps (like ProCamera, Camera+ 2, or native manual modes) to control exposure, ISO, and shutter speed. A smartphone tripod adapter and remote shutter release can significantly improve results.
Enable manual/professional mode to control ISO (800-3200) and shutter speed (5-30 seconds). Use the widest available aperture.
Use a tripod or stable surface. Even slight movement will blur long exposures. Consider a smartphone tripod mount.
Many phones have dedicated night photography modes that automatically optimize settings for low-light conditions.
A sturdy tripod is essential. Wide-angle lenses (14-24mm) work best. Bring extra batteries and memory cards for extended shooting sessions.
Include foreground elements like trees or mountains to add depth. Use the rule of thirds and look for interesting silhouettes against the aurora.
Shoot in RAW format for maximum editing flexibility. Adjust white balance, enhance colors, and reduce noise while maintaining natural aurora appearance.